Permaculture Design Certificate Course
Final Project
by: Topher Belknap
Prologue
I am doing my design on my own property, despite Geoff's advice to the contrary,
because it is the one out of my candidates which embodies all the issues that
are prevalent in my area. This property has been in my care since 2001. Permaculture
actions that have already been commensed will be written in green ink,
to differentiate it from ideas developed after starting my PDC.
The sign to welcome visitors to Hjälmaren photo credit: Topher Belknap
Client Design Briefing
Overview
The land is 11+ acres of mostly forest, some parts deciduous, some coniferous
with a number of cleared meadows. It is named Hjälmaren[1].
The client's desire is to make it more food productive while not spoiling the
beauty of the native landscape, nor destroying the local ecosystem. It is recognized
that this is a balancing act, and that compromises will need to be made.
Many of the current trees on the property are threatened by one or more problems,
Hemlock Woolly Adelgid,
Spruce Bud Worm,
Climate change, etc. The clients would like to protect these trees, whilst
also preparing for their loss by planting species which increase diversity,
and improve the ecosystem's resilience.
Some plants are not welcome, and efforts to remove them are needed,
chief amongst these are:
Japanese knotweed Fallopia japonica),
Poison Ivy Toxicodendron radicans.
There is too much lawn, which requires upkeep and mowing, while producing
nothing much of value. Much of what is now lawn was the product of previous attempts to remove some
more invasive species. The game lawn and possibly the paths can remain in lawn,
but the rest can be either be turned into some more productive, or returned
via succession to native forest.
Shoreline
The property has 1300 feet (400 meters) of shoreline on a tidal river, about
12 miles (26 kilometers) South to the ocean (which is basically East). It is the wish to maintain
this in the face of natural erosion, man induced erosion, and sea level rise.
Saltmarsh grass under attack photo credit: Topher Belknap
Saltmarsh Cordgrass
The species of intertidal grass
Spartina alterniflora
is currently threatened by an invasion of green crabs
Carcinus maenas
which is causing large scale die-off of the grass. Historical photos and paintings
show that the grass has been receeding in the region for a number of decades.
The grass is the first line of defense for the shore, to prevent ocean-side erosion.
Mudflats
The mudflats are recovering from the pollution (mostly sewage) of the previous decades, and
are currently open for harvesting of worms. This is done commercially, with
wormers going out during large low tides. Mussels
Mytilus edulis
are also present, but not harvested.
Red tide Karenia brevis
is a known problem, off and on, in the area. It is desired that the flats be brought back
completely to their pre-colonial state, which would entail the reintroduction
of clams
Mercenaria mercenaria,
and oysters
Crassostrea virginica,
and possibly horseshoe crabs
Limulus polyphemus,
and the halting of the
green crab issue. This is a delicate ecological and political issue, fortunately
one of our state legislators is also a marine biologist, and might be convinced to
help with this project.
Erosion on the shoreline banking photo credit: Topher Belknap
Banking
The banking leading down to the shore is, in places, steep, sparsely vegetated,
and subject to erosion from heavy rains. The clay soil sheds most of the water,
and dries hard in between, making planting difficult.
Animals
Humans
There are curently two inhabitants on the property, this may change, and
one consideration is to consider a couple more house sites, in order to
accomodate relatives or other friendlies.
It is desired to maintain this diversity, while appropriately sharing the
production. For instance, where the animals are eating elements intended
for humans, it would be preferrable to simply find a perferred substitute for
them, and provide that. Efforts to protect and aid the endangered species should
receive high priority.
There are currently two cats in residence. The clients have expressed a
desire to possibly add honeybees,
chickens, ducks, goats, and pigs (slowly as their skills
and infrastructure improve).
Water
There is currently an artesian well on the property, and the consistent rains
mean that the need for water is not great. The clients would like a cistern to
make water access more resilient (pumping is lost during the frequent power outages).
One or more ponds would be an asset to the property to act as aquaculture, water
storage for drought and to channel runoff to reduce erosion in sensitive areas.
Access
Private Road
The private section of the road, is the responsibility of the clients to
keep up, and maintain for other people living on the road. It currently drains poorly
(mostly only in a couple of places), and consequently gets muddy and filled with pot
holes. It should be noted that making the road too smooth encourages speeds
which are not in keeping with the children and animals which are often on it.
Parking Area
The parking area is merely a patch of lawn. This area gets very muddy and
rutty in mud season (it should be noted that this is not merely a drainage
issue as it is adequately sloped, but snow piles prevent water exiting)
and hard packed and bare in summer. The wish is for it
to be as natural as possible without the mud problem. While gravel
or stones are acceptable, asphalt or loose recycled asphalt are not.
Main Path
The main path going from the parking area to the vehicle access path, experiences
much the same problem as the parking area while also being quite steep.
Climate Description
Climate Zone
The property is located in the USDA Zone 5b. The latitude is 44°North 69.6°West,
and the property goes from 0 to 80 feet (25 meters) in altitude above sea level.
The nearest ocean is about 12 miles (26 kilometers) to the South, and is on an Eastern coast. The
climate is cold temperate, Dfb (Humid Continental Climate with even rain seasons)
in the Köppen–Geiger clmate classification.
Heating degree days & High and Low Averages
Season
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Total
2004-2005
56
73
205
504
773
1,131
1,754
1,140
977
684
495
159
7,950
2005-2006
64
48
174
532
781
1,235
1,128
1,146
995
616
347
107
7,173
2006-2007
23
90
206
532
672
978
1,288
1,329
1,072
734
355
158
7,437
2007-2008
72
92
200
399
861
1,255
1,226
1,136
1,019
613
390
130
7,393
2008-2009
48
96
234
570
815
1,185
1,569
1,160
1,062
596
382
186
7,903
2009-2010
108
78
264
603
724
1,165
1,283
989
810
536
325
143
7,028
2010-2011
44
79
178
522
778
1,149
1,422
1,236
1,006
632
369
184
7,599
2011-2012
44
60
163
461
695
1,027
1,204
1,041
805
568
313
170
6,551
2012-2013
44
40
218
410
861
1,053
1,257
1,072
937
647
380
128
7,047
2013-2014
28
82
212
475
858
1,302
1,338
1,178
1,178
661
362
138
7,812
2014-2015
44
79
230
398
848
1,032
1,406
1,498
1,140
676
n/a
n/a
7,351
Average
56
73
205
504
773
1,131
1,348
1,139
965
625
373
152
7,342
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Average High
76°
76°
68°
57°
47°
36°
29°
33°
40°
51°
62°
71°
Average Low
58°
57°
50°
39°
31°
20°
11°
14°
23°
33°
43°
52°
These figures are in Farenheit, with a base of 65°F for heating degree days
[2].
The 100 year, 24 hour Maximum rain event is 6 inches (152mm)
[4].
Property Description
Map
Hjälmaren as it was December 2003 (with place names) photo credit:
Google Earth
Watershed
The entirety of the watershed of the property is shown on the map above.
There is a bit of runoff from the public road, and the neighbor's slope above it
(on the East side of the property), but for the rest, the property starts
roughly at the ridgeline.
Soil
Classification
The soil was evaluated as Tunbridge-Lyman fine sandy loam.
The map unit consists of gently sloping and undulating soils.
Areas of these soils are on glaciated, low coastal ridges. Typically the
surface layer is brown fine sandy loam about 8 inches thick. The subsoil
is about 18 inches thick. It is a yellowish red that grades with depth to
dark yellowish brown gravelly fine sandy loam. The substratum is olive
gravelly fine sandy loam to a depth of about 31 inches. Bedrock [granite]
is at a depth of about 31 inches.
[5]
Soil Tests
The soil sample was taken from the area of the Big Garden, from an area undisturbed
during the client's tenure on the land. It is an area of mostly grass.
Texture
Soil components as determined by a settle test are: Sand 24%, Silt 33%, Clay 43%. The
soil will benefit from addition silt and sand in roughly equal measures, as well as
a large increase in organic materials.
pH
Tested pH levels are 5.3 (±0.4) as measured by Luster Leaf Professional Soil Test Kit.
This is Very Acidic compared to an ideal pH level of 6.5. Acid loving plants, and addition
of lime at a rate of 116 pounds/1000 feet2 (600 grams/meter2)
for non-acid loving plants, are recommended.
Nitrogen (N)
Tested NO3 levels are 5 (±5) mg/l as measured by Luster Leaf Professional
Soil Test Kit. This is considered a Low level. Nitrogen fixing plants are needed,
and/or introduction of nitrogen rich fertilizers at a rate of 2 pounds/1000 feet2
(9 grams/meter2), plus increased organic material compost,.
Phosphorus (P)
Tested P levels are 15 (±5) mg/l as measured by Luster Leaf Professional Soil Test Kit.
This is considered Medium to Low. Phosphorus dynamic accumulators and/or Phosphorus fertilizers
at a rate of 2 pounds/1000 feet2 (10 grams/meter2), plus increased
organic material compost, are recommended.
Potassium (K)
Tested K levels are 100 (±100) mg/l as measured by Luster Leaf Professional Soil
Test Kit. This is considered Medium to Low level.Phosphorus dynamic accumulators and/or Phosphorus fertilizers
at a rate of 3 pounds/1000 feet2 (14 grams/meter2), plus increased
organic material compost, are recommended.
History
Pre-colonial (before 1650)
Archaelogical evidence has determined that this land was occupied by various
peoples who, over various time periods, knapped stone tools; decorated pottery;
harvested, and ate shellfish like
clams Mercenaria mercenaria,
oysters Crassostrea virginica,
and mussels Mytilus edulis;
setup a fish weir; and caught and ate sturgeon
Acipenser oxyrinchus oxyrinchus
(and presumably salmon
Salmo salar).
The region was subjected to periodic (yearly?) burns to reduce ground litter
to ease hunting, this property may or may not have experienced this.
[6]
Colonial (1650-1800)
The property (and the whole state) was stripped of all trees and farmed
during this era. Maine was the state with the largest production of wheat at
this time. It was a prevalent practice to graze animals on the shore grass
Spartina alterniflora.
The largest remaining trees on the property probably date from the near the
end of this timeframe, as they are present mostly in the stone walls and are
scarred by the barbed wire (see below). The farming practices degraded the
soils across the region.
Federal Period (1800-1870)
During this time period there was a sheep boom in New England. Napolean's invasion
of the Iberian peninsula broke their monopoly on merrino wool sheep. These quickly
spread, particularly in this region. Barbed wire remanents indicate that the northern
boundary of the property had a fence designed to keep in sheep. This boom quickly degraded
the soil further, and farming in much of the region was abandoned for more fertile
lands in the great plains of the West.
[3]
Tourist Cabins (1870-1970)
The property housed several cabins which were rented to summer tourists. There
was substantial landscaping done, including sand imported to the shore to make a beach,
apple trees planted in an orchard, lilacs, and some invasive plants like
Japanese knotweed Fallopia japonica.
Much of the land reverted to forest at this time, with too closely spaces
pines, oaks and beeches.
Fallow (1970-2000)
During this time, the cabins were abandoned, and fell into disrepair. The knotweed
ran rampant encompassing an acre or two, and the property started in the sucession back
to forest. Prevalent in those areas were
Blackberries Rubus fruticosus,
Raspberries Rubus idaeus,
Staghorn Sumac Rhus typhina,
Quaking Aspen Populus tremuloides,
and various Birches.
Current Occupancy (2001-2015)
The current residents bought the property in 2001, tore down the collapsing cabins,
and built a new house. They have been trying to mitigate the damage that was done,
and increase the food production. They extract about 2 cords of wood per year
(mostly dead or damaged trees) to heat the house.
Map
Hjälmaren, with proposed water features (Sep 2014) photo credit:
Google Earth
Cistern
The easiest place to put a cistern is near the parking area at the top of
the property. This puts it in close proximity to the well, and allows gravity pressure
at the house (~26 feet of head, gives 11 psi at the house taps). Since the climate
produces hard freezes in winter, the cistern will need to be buried below frost
level. It can be filled by a small solar pump out of the existing well,
or rain runoff from a car shelter.
Keypoint Dam
The contour map is inaccurate in the area marked for the keypoint dam. There
is a depression here, and it is suggested that this be deepened further to
provide either a shallow pond, or a paddy for rice. Which will depend on
the level of the bedrock in this area. There is a ledge just up slope indicating
that it may not be very deep here. The dam will need to be accurately suveyed
before work commences, especially considering the discrepancy between map and
territory. The spillway for this dam will be on the Southwest side, and will
put water back in the original valley.
Low Dam
There is an opportunity for another dam in the valley on the North side of the
property. This will act as a reservoir for the long shoreline swale. This might
be deep enough and large enough to contain an ecosystem up to the size of game fish. The
frost depth in the region is 4 feet (120 cm), so to maintain fish over the winter,
some portion should be at least 5 feet deep. If that is not possible, upon
examination on site, the ecosystem installed should not inculde fish.
Swales
It is recommended that one swale be connected to the keypoint dam, to spread
water around the crest of the hilltop. In addition this will remove excess
water from the heavily trafficed portions of this area. Care will need to be taken
when constructing this swale, and it will need to be relatively shallow given
that it is for the most part fully forested. To avoid trees, it may be best to
construct the swales as hügel mounds rather than dug swales.
Another swale should be installed along the lower side of the road. The road
is releasing all the water that collects on it, at a single point, which is causing
some erosion. A swale along the downhill side will spread that water and allow it
to soak in, over a larger area. Changes in the road will also increase the spreading
of this water.
A third swale can be constructed along the entire shoreline, and connected to
the low dam. While functioning as a traditional swale, by slowing, spreading, and
soaking water, it will also serve to reduce erosion issues along the shore. This
erosion is caused by water running along the surface of the ground, particularly
where the slope and other conditions have prevented adequate plant cover. By both
reducing storm runoff, and increasing water soaked into the soil, this swale will
help plants get a foothold (roothold?) on the banking. Again, this is a fully wooded
region, and so the swale will need to be done by hand (or very small machine), with
care, and probably mostly as hügel mounds.
Drainage Ditch
On the up-slope side of the road, there is currently a drainage ditch, which
is not functioning well, mostly because traffic, particularly in the winter,
creates ruts for wheels, and snowplows, moving loose dirt to the edges, prevent
water from flowing into the ditch. This problem has continued uncorrected for
a number of years. This should be reversed, preventing standing water on the
road, which is the major cause of deteroration of the road surface. This will
need to be maintained yearly, though to a lesser degree. Once the ditch is performing
its job, there will need to be a small crossing pipe at the lowest point to facilitate
water transport to the other side.
The town road borders the property for a short span on the Eastern side of
the Northern border. It is an unimproved dirt road, which is often plagued
with potholes and drainage issues.
Private Road (light blue)
The private road which serves the property and those beyond, is an unimproved
dirt road. It is made from the same clay and stone, glacial tile as the rest
of the local soil, so it experiences potholes, and ruts, particularly
during the mud season between winter and spring. This is a particular problem
because daily variations in temperature cause the road to freeze and thaw, and
water is squozen out of it; however, the presence of large snow banks means that the
water has nowhere to drain.
It is recommended to regrade the road to have it slope either evenly to both sides
or, where that is impractical, toward the downhill side. For the area of primary
drainage (i.e. the lowest point on the road), a rock filled trench to aid in
drainage even in winter is required.
Vehicle Access to house (wide green)
The wide path from the road to the house is used only rarely for delivery
of large items. It only needs to be maintained at the level of a grass path,
as long as water does not accumulate on it, or flow the length of it causing
erosion. This issue has mostly been dealt with prior to this assessment, by
sloping the road to shed water to the downhill side, and maintaining that condition,
and fixing the remaining problem areas can follow that course.
Main paths
Current main path (narrow green)
This path suffers from mud and ice slipperiness in the winter, and is not
of approriate materials for a well-used path (namely clay). It is proposed that
this path be religated to summer only duty, and in the off season, rehabilited
with grass.
New winter path (red-orange)
During the winter it is proposed to use another path to pass from the house to the parking
area. This, as can be seen from the map, is shorter (easing shoveling duties),
and is also less steep, being mostly the same slope throughout, as it runs nearly
down the existing ridgeline. In summer, this
does not give as good an approach to the house, so it is likely the clients will
want to use the old path during those times.
Trails (yellow green)
There are a number of walking paths around the property. These are maintained
solely by infrequent usage, and often peter out and become vague.
New Trails (orange)
These should be set out in a more permanent manner. They should be arranged
either on contour, or down ridgelines. The trail to picnic
point should be made to pass a cart to ease transport of small boats.
Structures
House
Hjälmaren, House photo credit: Topher Belknap
The house is an energy efficient smallish cape style house. The
building method is a timber frame with a
Larsen truss
outside of that. This gives
12" (30cm) of insulation space, providing R-40 (RSI-7) value from
shredded cellulose insulation. The building is well air sealed, with high solar heat
gain windows. The heat loss is therefore only, 31 Million BTUs (33
kiloWatt-hours / meter2)
per year, or about 2 cords (3.6 meters3) of wood
[8].
Recommendations for the house include adding a heat retaining ventilation
system, and completing any remaining air sealing; Isolating the bulkhead door,
with a door in the plane of the basement walls, using the bulkhead for cool storage.
Greenhouse
Hjälmaren, with greenhouse (model) photo credit: Topher Belknap
A greenhouse on the South side of the house has been the plan since the house
was built. Last year a foundational patio was constructed on the location, with
piers to support the posts for the greenhouse structure. The greenhouse would be
designed as a heavy thermal mass structure for season extension, and other plant
growing. It would only provide supplemental heat to the house when it was dangerously
hot, otherwise, it would store the heat for cooler times. In the summer months,
The walls can be made removable, so that the space can continue to act as a patio,
for socializing and appreciating the view.
Wood Shed
Cord firewood would dry better with a shed to store next year's worth of
wood; this year's is stored in the basement. A good place for that would be
on the North side of the house, where it has access to both the storage in the
basement, and the incoming wood. It will need to be kept away from the body
of the house to prevent insects, and to keep the path clear.
Shed
The property is in need of a tool shed to hold gardening tools, other large
tools, ladders, boats, and bicycles.
Chicken Coop
The current chicken coop should be moved to the location shown in the Zone 1
map, and raised to allow easier access in times of snow.
Root Cellar
Due to the usage of the basement as a seasonal heat storage system, it is not
available as a root cellar. It is proposed that an external root cellar be installed
in the location marked. This provides (reasonably) easy access throughout the
winter months, and does not require a lot of additional snow shoveling. It is
near both potential paths. Earthbags are the easiest/cheapest form of construction for
such an underground space.
Sectors, Hjälmaren (September 2010) photo credit:
Google Earth
Prevailing Winds
The prevailing wind in this area of the country is from the west. After storms,
the wind will swing from North-West to West, and often in summer, to a South-West
sea breeze.
Winter Clear Winds
Cold winter winds on clear days come primarily from the North-West. The
house and other structures need to be placed within the shelter of the hill, and
existing coniferous trees.
Winter Storm Winds
The worst of winter storms come from the North-East 'nor-easters', the house is
partially sheltered from theses winds by slope and trees. Further plantings of
coniferous trees toward these winds is recommended. The proposed winter path
should meander between these to prevent a straight shot to the house from the winds.
Summer Sea Breezes
In the summer, the cooling breezes come from the ocean, namely from the South
and South-West. The casement windows in the house are arranged such that they open toward
this breeze on the South and West side of the house, and away on the other sides.
This makes it easy to set up a cross breeze to cool the house during the day, when
those breezes blow (which is most hot days). During the evening, an alternate plan
of opening windows high on the leeward side, and twice that area, low on the windward
side, taking advantage of the stack effect to pull hot air from the house.
Fire sectors
The property is surrounded on three sides by water, including the fire winds
which would come from the West. This area is not at great risk from fires due to
frequent and regular rains. No provisions need be made for fire sectors.
Noise Sectors
Highway
There is a highway, over two bridges, stretching from South to South-West.
The noise travels easily over the water between there and the property.
Seagulls in Spring
The cove to the south and west hosts the annual spring gathering for mating
seagulls (mostly Herring Gulls
Larus smithsonianus)
though other species are also present. The birds can number up to 1,000, and
produce quite a racket. Sometimes they make it hard to converse, but are otherwise
enjoyable.
Peepers
The local Tree Frogs
Pseudacris crucifer crucifer,
send up quite a chorus in the early spring. The neighbor's
pond (see top right of property map) hosts a large number, and the results
can be amazing. The house is blocked for the most part from this, by the slope
of the land.
Race track
There is a race track about 5 miles away to the North-Northwest, this
produces a drone-like sound every Saturday in the summer. It is probably
not possible to reduce this nuisance.
Smell Sectors
Flats Mud
The mud in the flats has become far less objectionably smelly
in the past few decades, due to clean up efforts, and control of 'overboard
discharge' (dumping sewage directly into the river). There is still occasionally
a smell from this sector, for the house this encompasses South-Southeast to
North-Northwest.
Having a family that has lived on the same piece of land about 5 miles from
the site, for about 90 years, gives perspective on sea level change. Even without
climate change induced rise, small changes in sea level have a distinct and noticable
impact on the shoreline. If land is to be kept indefinitely, vigilance and
action are required.
View Sectors
There is a river view from South to West-Northwest. The best view is directly
to the West, with the travel of the sun presenting beautiful sunsets, seen from the
house in all seasons except high summer (when the sun is too far North, and trees
are in full leaf). Maintaining that view while still adding trees to the shoreline
is a priority for the clients.
Permaculture Zones
Map
Permaculture Zones for Hjälmaren (2013) photo credit:
Google Earth
Zone 1
Encompasses the house and immediate surrounds, it is reserved for things
which are visited multiple times in a day. These include
Medicinal and food herb garden, strawberry patch up against the foundation stones
for early spring warmth, hops trellis for summer shade, kitchen garden, cider press stand,
patio for enjoying the view, clothes line,
American Chestnut Castanea dentata,
games lawn.
To be added are: woodshed, greenhouse on the house's South side, tool shed,
chicken coop, root cellar,
Sugar Maple Acer saccharum,
Sea Buckthorn Hippophae rhamnoides.
See plan below.
In this zone, the large coniferous trees, which are, or potentially are
shading the solar panels, will need to be pruned or removed, as opportunity presents.
Zone 2
Zone 2 is all those places which are seen at least once per day under normal
summer circumstances. Trips made there to do work, are less frequent than Zone 1.
Elements in this zone include Bee hive, orchards, grape, paw paw, and kiwi vines,
nut trees, the 'Secret Garden', berries, and periennial vegetables like rhubarb and
asparagus. This is also the home of the compost bins, parking area, mail box,
and other remote hardware.
Zone 3
This is the zone for large gardens and food forests, that only need tending
infrequently. In the lower section, should be placed, the mushroom garden (under
heavy shade), as well as the main crop garden in the 'big garden' golding potatoes,
wheat, cabbage, etc.
The upper (Northern) section of Zone 3, contains the keypoint dam, which if
circumstances allow it to be deep enough 4-5 feet (2 meters) should be put into
aquaculture, with an ecosystem supporting fish for consumption. If the ledge
prevents that depth, the area can be turned into a rice paddie (a la
Ben Falks).
This would make it an ideal place to free range baby ducks, to weed and fertilize the
rice plants.
Zone 4
This zone is currently forested, with most(ly eastern white pine, which is
overcrowded. The many trees that are dying are the current source for firewood.
This can continue, but replacement trees should be planted to fill any openings
in the canopy, with the plan of increasing the value of the trees in lumber, craft,
and denser firewood species:
BeechFagus grandifolia,
Black Walnut Juglans nigra,
Shagbark HickoryCarya ovata,
White Oak Quercus alba,
Red Oak Quercus rubra,
Black Locust Robinia pseudoacacia.
The eastern border needs to be made more secure, it is recommended that this
be planted with a hedge of honey locust
Gleditsia triacanthos
trees, which can form a lay-down hedge
once they acheive a good size.
The lower part of this region is currently home to a large number of
Ostrich Ferns Matteuccia struthiopteris.
This plant produces fiddleheads, which are an edible spring green, and a possibly
cash crop. They should be encouraged.
Zone 5
Shoreland Zone
The regulations for the shoreland (within 75 feet of the mean high tide line),
make it a de facto zone 5. There will still need to be some work done in this
zone, for example, there is still erosion which will be mitigated, and
trees planted to maintain the land within the regulations. This
should all be strictly done with native plants if at all possible.
Other Zone 5
The Northern non-shoreline section of zone 5 joins a contiguous natural
wildlife strip, extending mostly uninterrupted, for about 500 acres. Again,
this area should mostly remain unmolested, just enjoyed.
Element Analysis
Humans
The humans in this ecosystem are, as everywhere, the most disruptive factor,
despite any desire to minimize that disruption. Humans seem to have lost the
ability to be unobtrusive. That said, the client's wish to reduce that disruption
not only on the property, but off it as well. Yearly inputs to the system for humans
include food, water from the well, sawdust for composting toilet 1 cubic yard (1 meter3),
Energy: Electricity (2,000 kiloWatt-hours), Propane (150 gallons or 570 liters),
Gasoline (125 gallons or 475 liters).
Yearly outputs include: Trash (200 cubic feet or 3.5 meters3),
Composting toilet(1 cubic yard or 1 meter3 per year), Heat.
Animals
Bees
Bees require little not naturally present in every environment suitable for
humans. They need water, food, in the form of pollen, and nectar, and propolis
(from pine sap) to seal air leaks in their house in winter. Supplementing
this in times of great stress with sugar syrup, and providing a suitable house
is all that should be required. In exchange they will pollinate all the flowers
within a 2 mile (4 kilometer) radius. They will also produce more honey and
beeswax than they can use, which can be harvested for human needs. Propolis
interestingly sells for about $70 USD per pound ($32 per kilogram).
Chickens
Chickens require, food, water, and shelter as do we all, and additionally
grit to activate their gizards, dust to bath in, and protection from predators.
They provide eggs, fertilizer, compost processing, pest control (notably
both ticks and slugs) and ground preparation in the form of scratching.
Dry laid rocks around foundation of Hjälmaren, photo credit: Topher Belknap
Inorganic
Rocks, Small
Small rocks are useful for stacking against the foundation, this provides
thermal mass heat storage for nearby plants, extending the season.
Rocks, Medium
Movable rocks are useful for establishing boundaries, making snake (and
other predator) habitat (no venomous snakes in this area),
and putting around the non sunward side of ponds
to act as a sun absorber to melt ice. There is a large supply of such rocks
between the secret garden and the proposed key point dam location.
Design
Zone 1
Schematic of Zone 1 photo credit: Topher Belknap
Most of the Zone 1 design is discussed above, for the remainder it is a matter
of squeezing as much function as possible between existing trees. As existing trees
are removed due to threatening the house with dropped branches, or to acheive
increased solar insolation to the windows and solar panels, they should be replaced with
productive deciduous trees.
Gardens in this zone include (G) a strawberry patch, up against the dry laid stone
facing of the foundation to create a warmer microclimate. (H) A couple of cold frames
can be placed to the South side of the greenhouse, benefitting from its supply of warmth
and ease of access in the winter. (I) An herb garden to grow food and medicinal herbs.
(J) An annual food garden for high maintenance vegetables. (N)A trellis growing hops
also shades the South side of the house in high summer, and produces ingredients
for beer for the winter.
Schematic of New Orchard Plantings photo credit: Topher Belknap
The new orchard has some unique constraints due to its location. It is on
the inside of the curve of the private road, and as such the sightlines should
be maintained to ensure safe travel on the road. In addition, there are utility
lines above, that will need to remain free from interference with the plants. Thus,
trees and other plants will need to be pruned, so that only trunks are present between
heights of 2 feet (60 cm) and 6 feet (180 cm). Along the property line, taller
and fuller plants are ok.
Old Orchard
Schematic of Old Orchard Plantings photo credit: Topher Belknap
This section currently contains a number of heritage apple trees, and volunteers
from them; the oldest may be 150 years old. When the property was acquired, these
trees were in sorry shape, but pruning and care have brought a number of them into
significant production. They are to be the backbone of a food forest. They should
be provided with support species, nitrogen fixers, dynamic accumulators, and pest deterers.
The space between them will then be filled with supplemental productive species (see below).
Large Garden
The large garden was not adequately close to the house (Zone 3) to function well
as a vegetable garden. That function should be moved to Zones 1 & 2, and this garden
converted to a main crop garden, growing grains, potatoes, and other large
starch crops. In addition, it should be reconfigured to have rows run on contour
instead of trying to fight gravity with straight rows running diagonal to the
contour lines.
Top Bar Bee Hive photo credit: Topher Belknap
Bees
As the beehive did not get adequate attention placed as it was in Zone 3. It
should be moved to the border between zones 1 and 2. The bees
are housed in a
top-bar hive,
which is a more natural system, allowing more appropriately
sized bees, reduced toxins in the
wax,
and easier access by beekeepers. I think it would be great if Geoff made a video
about them.
Plants
Orchards
Recommended plants to supplement the requested varieties in the New and Old Orchard
areas:
Siberian Pea Shrub Caragana arborescens
Useful as early support species, providing Nitrogen-fixing services to production
trees. It should be cut and dropped as mulch until it dies.
Honey Locust Gleditsia triacanthos:
A tree reknowned for its thorns. This tree may be a nitrogen-fixer (disputed), and it is an ideal tree for
a cut and weave hedge.
Sea Buckthorn Hippophae rhamnoides
This shrub functions both as a nitrogen-fixing support species, and as a food
producing plant high in vitamin C. Due to its salt-tolerance, resistance to wind and frost,
and it wide-reaching roots, it would be an ideal experimental shrub for areas
of the shoreline banking which are failing to support any native species. Since
it is desired by the clients to maintain as much as possible, native species in
the shoreland zone, this would be a last resort.
Mulberry Morus rubra
This tree functions not only as an early producer of berries for human consumption,
but also due to the prodigous quantities, as a lure for birds, to keep them off other fruits.
Black Locust Robinia pseudoacacia
This plant has many uses, it is a Nitrogen-fixer, an early blossum providing excellent forage for bees,
it is a fast growing, yet dense wood tree, making it ideal for firewood. Also the wood is very rot-resistant,
considered perfect for fence post, and other wood in ground contact. It is recommended in large numbers as
sacrifical support trees in orchards and other food forests. It has spines, so should be carefully placed out
of path areas.
Comfrey Symphytum officinale X S. asperum
This fast growing plant is a dynamic accumulator, and is a great crop to plant
near production trees, so that they can be chopped and dropped to provide
Specific Issues
Japanese Knotweed
Research into eradicating this invasive alien species is mixed and no
solution appears to be sufficient to the task. The three options appear to be
poisoning, digging, and chopping. They all seem to roughly equivalent in effcaiousness.
That said, poisoning with
Glyphosate
is ruled out particularly since the property is
on a tidal river; digging is significantly more hand labor than just chopping.
The trick to chopping is to be perserverent, keeping the shoots younger than 15
days. This will produce large amounts of biomass for compost or mulch, which
can be put on gardens, after it have composted or dried.
Poison Ivy
Full protective clothing and manual removal appears to be the most appropriate
remedy given that one of the clients is exceedingly sensitive to the oils of this
plant. Disposal is then in the region's biomass fired electric plant. Ground from
which it is removed should then be prepared with a sheet mulch and some rampant plant
to hold that niche to keep it from returning.
Shoreline Banking
Bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
is reccommended as an first attempt to vegetate the shoreline banking. It is
resistant to salt, and overheating, spreads by root extension. Fully mature it
can encompass 10 square feet (1 square meter), though it may want to be planted
more densely than that if it takes in the problem locations.
Ticks & Slugs
These two elements in excess will be controlled by an introduction of
chickens and ducks into the local ecosystem.
Phased Implementation
Realities being what they are, it is not anticipated that this work can
all be accomplished right away. Particularly things like the lond shoreline
swale which must be constructed by hand will take a number of years to complete.
The important thing is to begin, and then continue. Water and Trees are the
things which area best started soonest, water since it is so disruptive, and trees
because they take so long to reach maturity. It is better to complete the
design for a given area, and then move to the next area, rather than trying
to bring all areas up to the same level before proceeding to the next level.
This reduces the amount of resources that need to be gathered, for example,
one flock of chickens can work heavily in a single area, and then be moved,
rather than needing 10 flocks, and then having to put them on welfare when the
jobs run out.
Areas in which work is being contemplated should see first the grazers
(pigs, goats, ducks) and scratchers (chickens), to prepare the area by removing
existing (small) vegetation, and start the process of fertilization. Next, the
support species should be planted, ground covers, Nitrogen fixers, and dynamic
accumulators. The intended productive plants can then be added, This can happen
at the same time if the soil will support it.
Ad Hoc Implementation
For this large a property, and limited time of two occupants, some elements
or changes will happen whenever there is a bit of time, or conditions warrant.
Downed trees which are not destined to be firewood, should be rotated in place
to be on-contour. Logs on Contour
Rocks in the flats of the shore should be moved up against the banking, to
make that more secure against erosion. They should NOT be placed so as to interfere
with shore grass. Rocks with seaweed attached, that are also in a zone
where there is (or might potentially be) shore grass, should be moved away from
that area, as seaweed smothers the grass.